I’m in love. With Harris tweed. What can I say? I just love it. It shapes well. It’s so darn pretty to look at. It’s got body. And it smells so satisfysingly woolly when I steam it.
I made up Vogue 8295, View D out of Harris Tweed in a mixed brown that looks very “tweedy”. I really liked all the full tweed skirts at Louis Vuitton this fall, so I thought I’d make one for myself. It’s such a classic look that I wanted to make it out of something that would last a long time. Hence my choice of tweed. I chose the pattern with the yoke because I didn’t have enough tweed to do a proper full circle skirt, and I did not want any bulk around my waist or hips (no gathers, please!)
Vogue 8295 presents some fitting issues for me. As you can see from the photos below I am swaybacked, that is, my pelvis rolls backwards. This creates a curve in my back and rolls my front waist lower.
On a skirt, there’s two ways to fix this problem: 1) hem it evenly all round using a ruler and measuring the length of the hem from the floor; or 2) adjust thecut of the skirt at the waist so it hangs straight and true to grain. This is always my choice because the seams are then perpendicular to the floor and the integrity of the fabric grain is not compromised.
How to do this… Well, I trimmed 1” from the front of the yoke, which is the difference in length between the back and front hems usually for me.
This adds some width in the waist, though, because in effect I’m making the top of the yoke about 2 or 3 inches larger. So I needed to trim the sides of the front yoke about 1” each, tapering to the bottom of the yoke. Once this is done, the skirt can be stitched up and there’s no need for fussing with an uneven hem.
Quite the ’70′s look, don’t ya think?